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DISCLAIMER: By following the steps on these pages, you risk modifying, or worse, damaging your display/camera permanently. I will not be responsible for any damage that may occur to your display/camera while following the steps described herein. Good luck. |
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Another tricky part was designing the connection for the front panel using the existing mounting holes. To compensate for the 15mm gap between the front panel and existing mounting tabs, I designed a spacer composed of a 13mm deep piece of plexiglass glued to a 3mm piece of rubber. The rubber portion acts as a cushion, protecting the plexiglass against scratches due to flexing pressure during movement. |
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Using a heat gun, I bent a piece of 1/4" plexiglass to form the legs and back support of the screen. To keep the legs level and parallel, I used a piece of wood to stabilize them and drew a line in order to accurately adjust the height. It took a number of attempts to get the proper angle and height. |
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Checking the angle of the stand. |
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The camera is now mounted to the back of the viewer with wingnuts allowing for adjustments to the depth of field and the angle of the camera. |
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| The final product. Almost. | ![]() |
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| Here, the loop portion of the plexiglass stand has been removed to allow for the free movement of the cables when the viewer is being held. Note the addition of velcro and electrical tape to keep the wires orderly. | ![]() |
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| The completed viewer in use. | ![]() |
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