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Click on image to view full size versions. |
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Purchase some wire wrap. Its handy. |
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Purchase a premanufactured enclosure to eclose the PCB. This one was a perfect fit. Drill a hole on one short side of the enclosure. Disconnect the power and video from the PCB and feed the wire through the hole and reconnect. On the other side of the enclosure, make a notch to accomodate the spiral wrapped wire and set in place with hot glue. Tuck the FFCs in and screw down the top of the enclosure. |
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The completed enclosure. |
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The trickiest part is now upon you. You must accurately align the display to be viewable from your eye as well as sit comfortably on your face. Taking a page from Clifford Leong's M1 conversion, the display is mounted upsidedown. The next difficulty is to attach the display to the back of the sunglass lens. To do this, bend a metal wire at the top of the optic and use hot glue to attach it to optic on one side and to the sunglass lens on the other. This metal piece also acts as a brace to hold the optic at the appropriate angle. This is tricky. Be patient. Place a dab of hot glue where the backlight touches the sunglass lens for added strength. Also note that the camera is mounted on the right side of the optic with epoxy glue. Drill a small hole (1/4") in the sunglass lens so that the camera's picture is unaffected by the sunglass lens. Remember to do this before gluing anything into place. Surprisingly enough it all sits pretty comfortably on my face. If i push the glasses right up against my face i will touch the optic, so i wear it only a tad lower on my nose for a perfect picture. |
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| Take photos of your wife or girlfriend channelling Jackie O. Embarrass her by posting them on the Web. You can barely see the hole for the camera. | ![]() |
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| Go outside, covert, looking like Bono. Total cost $485.00 Canadian ($350US). | ![]() |
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